Italian Royal Jewels: Queen Margherita of Savoy's Emerald Parure

One of my favourite emerald sets of all times has to be Queen Margherita of Savoy's emerald parure.

Parts of the original parure: the necklace (with detachable centrepiece), the devant de corsage, and the earrings

This gorgeous parure may no longer be in one piece and indeed, no longer with the House of Savoy, but we can still admire its exquisite beauty. It is notable also notable for its historical value, the emeralds of amazing quality, and the somewhat unusual combination of emeralds, diamonds and pearls.

The parure made its way into Savoy jewellery collection as part of a marriage settlement: in 1841, King Charles Albert of Sardinia acquired the set from Viennese jeweller Delsotto for the marriage settlement between Archduchess Maria Adelaide of Austria (future Queen Adelaide) and his son, the Duke of Savoy (future King Victor Emamanuel II). 

Italian Royal Jewels: Elena of Montenegro’s Emerald Tiara

Queen Elena’s tiara’ was a gift from her mother-in-law. The emerald and diamond tiara was creating by dismantling some of Margherita’s jewels. Judging by the pictures, it would appear that the centre emerald in Elena’s tiara is actually one of the oval stones from the tiara of the original parure.

Elena of Montenegro's Tiara in its original form

Initially, it was a pretty delicate piece and consisted of five ornate pillars rising from a silver frame. Each pillar had a small diamond and a large emerald on the top. In between the pillars, small silver decorations were positioned. In time, Elena had the tiara modified in small ways, with the frame undergoing the most significant changes; it considerably gained in the volume and consisted of silver overlapping semi-circles. 

Elena wearing the tiara in its original form (left) and after modifications (right)

Italian Royal Jewels: Queen Margherita of Savoy's Pearl Earrings

The Diamond and Pearl Earrings were a gift to Margherita of Savoy from her husband, the future Umberto I of Italy.

Queen Margherita's Pearl Earrings

Perhaps for sentimental reasons, the Queen loved these earrings. Their classic design complimented nearly all jewels so Margherita had a good use of this pair.

Italian Royal Jewels: Queen Margherita of Savoy's Emerald Brooch

Margherita of Savoy had an expert’s eye for jewellery and thanks to her generous husband, that passion thrived.

Emerald, Diamond and Pearl Brooch

King Umberto I gave this wonderful emerald brooch as a gift to his wife in 1879. It was meant to compliment the rest of her emerald parure and so was made in the same design. It consisted of a single large emerald set in a setting of smaller emeralds and diamonds. A large pearl drop hangs from the centre of the frame, with two smaller diamond drops on either side.

Italian Royal Jewels: Princess Astrid's Savoy-Aosta Tiara

Since we’ve just covered the Savoy-Aosta Emerald and Diamond Necklace, it makes sense to cover the tiara Princess Astrid wears with it. In fact, Astrid dons this tiara with every jewellery since it appears to be the only one in her possession.

The Savoy-Aosta Diamond Tiara

The beautiful tiara consists of scrolls, leafs and flowers embellish with diamonds. Like the necklace, the tiara comes from her husband’s family; it's first known owner was Princess Anne of Orleans. Nowadays it belongs to Archduchess Margherita, mother of Astrid’s husband Archduke Lorenz. The tiara appears to be on pretty much permanent loan to the Princess.

Italian Royal Jewels: Princess Helene of Orleans' Emerald Necklace

Apart from the Emerald Necklace of Maria Vittoria, the Savoy-Aosta family has another beautiful emerald and diamond necklace. Well, had anyway: at some point it was sold and its present whereabouts are not known.

The second Emerald and Diamond Necklace of Princess Helene of Orleans

The Savoy-Aosta Emerald Necklace was another wedding gift to Princess Helene of Orleans upon her marriage to Prince Emanuele Filiberto, 2nd Duke of Aosta. The generous present came from Henri d’Orleans, Duc d'Aumale – Helene’s godfather. The two representatives of the House of Orleans were also closely related: Helene’s grandfather, Prince Ferdinand Philippe, Duke of Orleans, and Henri d’Orleans were brothers.

Italian Royal Jewels: Queen Maria Vittoria's Emerald Necklace

The collection of Savoy jewels never ceases to amaze me; even though huge chunks were sold off over the years, what remains is still mesmerizingly beautiful and really impressive. This necklace is among my personal favourites.

Princess Helene's Emerald and Diamond Necklace

The origins of the necklace are somewhat obscure. Some say it belonged to the Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo, wife of Amadeo I of Spain (known as Amadeo, 1st Duke of Aosta after his abdication). 

Yet other sources claim Princess Helene of Orleans received the necklace as a wedding gift upon her marriage to Prince Emanuele Filiberto, 2nd Duke of Aosta – the son of Amadeo I and Maria Vittoria.