Thursday, January 24, 2013

Dutch Royal Jewels: Queen Juliana’s Aquamarine Tiara and Parure

The Dutch Royal House has, in my opinion, one of the most stunning aquamarine jewellery collections. And since I happen to be a huge fan of the stone, I just couldn’t possibly miss the opportunity to cover the wonderful gems. Since most (if not all) of those jewels come from Queen Juliana’s collection, I count them all as one giant parure.
Queen Juliana's Aquamarine Tiara
The collection started nearly 90 years ago, in 1927; Princess Juliana received from her parents an art deco tiara made of Brazilian aquamarines and diamonds in a platinum frame. The base of the tiara is set with square-cut aquamarines with seven larger aquamarine briolette drops on the top. The tiara was created by the Kempen, Begeer & Vos.

Over the years, her collection of aquamarines expanded. From her grandmother, Queen Emma, she received an aquamarine demi-parure which included a necklace of aquamarine and diamonds. The necklace consists of six square and one rectangular aquamarines nested in the three strings of diamond-encrusted platinum frame. It can be shortened and worn as a bracelet as well.
The Aquamarine Necklace - a present from Queen Emma (left), and Prince Bernhard's Aquamarine Pendant suspended from a riviere (top right) and with its original long gold chain (bottom right)
Juliana’s mother-in-law, Princess Armgard, gave her two pairs of briolette aquamarine earrings. The earrings are very versatile; both the bases and drops can be removed and worn interchangeably. In 1937, the Princess’s husband, Prince Bernhard, expanded the collection with the addition of a large pear-shaped aquamarine pendant on a long gold chain. The pendant can be removed and worn with another necklace; Queen Beatrix often wears it with one of her diamond riviere necklaces.

Prince Bernhard also gave his wife an aquamarine brooch; it is made of a cushion cut aquamarine set in platinum and surrounded by smaller aquamarines. The parure also includes another large aquamarine brooch set in platinum and surrounded by diamonds. There is also at least one aquamarine ring in the collection.
Set of Aquamarine Earrings (a present from Princess Armgard)
Over the years, all elements of the parure have been extensively worn not just by Queen Juliana but other Dutch Royal ladies. Princess Margriet especially was especially fond of aquamarine jewels and continues to wear them to this day. 

Queen Beatrix, Princess Maxima, Princess Mabel and Princess Laurentien are all likewise fans of the parure and occasionally wear various elements from it. The tiara is mainly worn by Princess Maxima.

During the state visit to Brunei in January of 2013, Queen Beatrix and Princess Maxima reversed roles a bit; Maxima wore one of the Queen’s signature tiaras (The Pearl Button Tiara), while the Queen wore the Aquamarine Tiara.
Aquamarine Brooches (top) and Aquamarine Bracelets (bottom)
This magnificent parure was purchased by the House of Orange-Nassau Foundation set by Queen Juliana in 1960. Since it belongs to the Foundation, it can be inherited by the Monarch-only, meaning this parure will not leave the Royal House and we will not have to worry it will be sold or broken apart.

Credit:, Royal-Magazine 

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